Fashion companies use modelling agencies because they don’t have the
in-house expertise to scout, manage and book models. These days, however,
anyone can build a website with a portfolio page and present themselves as
a freelance model. Is it still even necessary to hire a big-name modelling
agency for a fotoshoot or fashion show? Will street casting or a shout-out
via Facebook suffice? After all, aren’t there enough beautiful girls who
would love to pose for the camera and would not hesitate to put in a day’s
work in exchange for free clothes?

Model or the pretty girl-next-door?

Years ago I had a regular client through my modelling agency: Zetex. It
was family-owned business with two sleepwear labels based in Haelen, a
village in the province of Limburg. It was a long commute from Amsterdam
and the shoot itself was hard work. The set was purely functional: the look
book was always photographed against a white paper background. No exciting
poses, just a few small variations: first leaning on the left leg, then on
the right and, to add a little variety, maybe a hand on the hip. There
wasn’t a great deal of room for creativity, but because the team was so
great, I enjoyed myself. I did sometimes wonder why they wanted me
specifically to travel to the other side of the country every month for a
rather basic shoot, which anyone should be able to do. In hindsight, I
realise that pictures require a professional Taking pictures of up to forty
outfits in one day, means you have to be able to change poses every couple
of clicks and still manage a ‘genuine’ smile by the end of the day. You
have to be prepared to work long hours and, despite the routine, to remain
critical of the result. Of course, you could hire the pretty
girl-next-door, but chances are her smiling pose would not make it to the
end of the day.

Thanks to the pleasant collaboration with Zetex, they kept asking for
me. If I couldn’t make it during the week because of classes, they would
move the shoot up to a day that I could make it, like a Sunday. Of course,
this did nothing to alter the business-like nature of the booking, but in
the tiny small church-going community in Limburg, it did result in certain
rumours. A male employee of a sleepwear company meeting up with a young
model on a Sunday? That was unheard of. Of course, modelling quickly calls
to mind sleazy photographers who flirt with models and there is truth in
the cliché. But you won’t find it very readily in commercial business:
there simply isn’t enough time for that kind of nonsense. That look book
needs to be filled, which takes work!

Lights on…camera ready…No show!

Despite the fact that modelling is craft (and not every pretty girl or
good-looking boy possesses natural talent), many companies prefer to book
models on their own. And it does have its advantages: book a freelance
model and agree to a fee, without the costs of a middle man. And if the
shoot goes according to plan, there really is no problem. But the reality
is often far more disappointing. Because what happens when that same model
is offered a more lucrative job? Unfortunately, models do sometimes
disappoint, particularly when they aren’t being paid (enough). They might
call to cancel on the day of the shoot, or simply not show up. This is
disastrous, particularly when an important photo session is involved.
Fashion brands invest a great deal of time and money to create the perfect
picture: they have to book a studio or location, hire a stylist, make-up
artist and photographer, the latter usually accompanies by an assistant who
has helped him build the entire set in advance. Without a model, though,
the whole production collapses. Modelling agencies are very straight
forward in these cases: a ‘no show’ without a valid reason results in a
serious warning, at the very least, and in the worst case, immediate
banishment from the agency. After all, this sort of negligence could end up
costing the agency an important client.

When booking through a modelling agency, you can therefore at least be
assured that the model will most like turn up. You are also guaranteed a
good replacement if, for some reason, the model cannot make the
appointment. Working with a professional modelling agency has more
advantages. Not only are the bookers familiar with the rights and duties
related to the business, even more importantly, they know the models
personally. At a good agency, the bookers see the models regularly. There
are many reasons for the models to drop by: to pick up their portfolio’s
for a casting, trying on samples brought round by a fashion label, have new
pictures taken or reporting on a modelling assignment abroad. Thanks to
these regular visits, the modelling agency can instantly see if the model
is fit, has good skin, if her hairstyle is still the same as in her
portfolio pictures, if she is happy – these are all important factors for a
booking.

Not only a clothes hanger, but a chameleon

People often say that models are no more than ‘clothes hangers’. In my
opinion, the foremost role of a model is that of chameleon. It is amazing
to see how some models can transform into all sorts of different types with
the help of clothing, hairstyling and make-up. To a certain extent, this
obviously applies to everyone, but for models the transformation is easier
because it requires a symmetrical face. A good model can appear young in
one shoot, mature in the next; distant, then friendly. Psychological
studies have shown that the most average faces are perceived as the most
attractive. The Dutch computer artist Micha Klein studied this phenomenon
with his ‘Artificial Beauty Series’, for which he altered scanned pictures
of models on the computer using the so-called morphing-technique. The
result is an unnatural but also very familiar appearance: his portraits
exude something other-worldly and yet also look like real-life ‘model
beauties’. With the exception of a few distinct types (tattoos, piercings
or a bald head as their trademark), many models therefore possess a very
average – often described as classic – beauty that appeals to a large group
of people. In other words, the professional girl-next-door!

Natasja Admiraal is a freelance fashion journalist, who has worked
for FashionUnited since 2008, and also writes about related subjects such
as jewellery and design. You might also find Natasja gracing the cover of a
magazine: she has been working as a model for the past ten years.

Photo 1: A photoshoot for an editorial
Photo 2: Natasja in action during a photoshoot

Next time: Part III – The do’s and don’ts during a photoshoot

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